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Worth the trip: a collectors' project in visiting museums and libraries

A working list of museums, university centers and library collections where collectors can handle paper and book arts material in person, plus travel tips.

Handling a sheet beats reading about it. This collectors' project in visiting museums and libraries runs on named addresses: eight museums, university centers and library reading rooms in North America put paper, presses and bound books in front of you. Each is reachable by an amateur with a question and an appointment.

What to take away

  • The Robert C. Williams Museum of Papermaking in Atlanta, on the Georgia Tech campus, is the largest paper museum in the world and free to enter.
  • The University of Iowa Center for the Book runs working letterpress and bindery studios and arranges visits for non-students who ask.
  • Library special collections admit the public with photo ID and a stated research interest.
  • The Harry Ransom Center in Austin, the Newberry Library in Chicago and the Beinecke Rare Book and Manuscript Library at Yale cost nothing to enter.
  • Write two weeks ahead, name one specific thing you want to see, and ask the photography policy before you travel.
  • Bring a pencil. Pens are barred from most reading rooms.

Eight museums, centers and reading rooms open to visitors

PlaceWhereWhat you seeHow to get in
Robert C. Williams Museum of PapermakingAtlanta, GeorgiaDard Hunter's hand papermaking tools, historic sheets, the exhibition programWalk in, free
University of Iowa Center for the BookIowa City, IowaWorking letterpress and bindery studios, student workEmail the prospective students contact and ask for a visit
Thomas J. Watson Library, Metropolitan Museum of ArtNew York CityBook arts, bindings, trade and auction cataloguesFree reader card, photo ID, weekdays
Bancroft Library, University of California, BerkeleyBerkeley, CaliforniaWestern printing, fine press books, the Mark Twain Papers, manuscript watermarksReading room request, photo ID
San Francisco Center for the BookSan Francisco, CaliforniaWorking presses, open studio hours, the free Roadworks steamroller print festival each SeptemberPublic hours, paid workshops
Harry Ransom Center, University of Texas at AustinAustin, TexasA Gutenberg Bible, a Shakespeare First Folio, film and costume collectionsWalk in, free
Newberry LibraryChicago, IllinoisEarly printed books, the Ayer collection of Indigenous American materialsFree reader card, photo ID
The Huntington Library, Art Museum, and Botanical GardensSan Marino, CaliforniaA Gutenberg Bible on vellum, the Ellesmere Chaucer, fine press holdingsPaid gallery admission, typically about $25 to $30 for adults, and a free reading room by application

The Williams Museum sits inside the Georgia Tech renewable bioproducts institute, which is why its exhibitions tie paper to fiber and textile work. Seeing those processes side by side makes fiber and sizing choices easier to judge on a sample sheet.

University centers are more open than they look

The Iowa center describes itself as reaching past its own studios into the wider arts and writing community, and its prospective students page invites inquiries and offers to arrange a conversation.

You do not have to be a degree applicant. One polite message usually works: say you are a serious amateur, name what you want to see, and offer two dates you could come.

The Center for Book Arts in New York and the Minnesota Center for Book Arts in Minneapolis run the same kind of open studios and short workshops.

Reading rooms reward preparation

A special collections reading room is a supervised space where staff page material from closed stacks and hand it to you at a desk. Request items through the catalogue before you travel, because paging takes a day or more at large libraries.

Ask what you may bring in. Pencils are usually allowed, fountain pens almost never, and some rooms restrict loose paper. Lockers and pencil loans are common, so a slim bag helps.

Watermarks against the light, sheet formation, deckle edges and how ink sits in the fiber are the four things worth your time. All four transfer to buying paper without a second trip.

Registration differs by library. The Watson Library at the Metropolitan Museum of Art issues its reader card free to anyone 18 or older with photo ID. The Newberry Library in Chicago issues one to any researcher, university affiliation or not.

Studios show process at working speed

Open studios at the San Francisco Center for the Book run presses while you watch, which no exhibition case can match. Its Roadworks steamroller print festival, held each September, is free and pulls oversized woodblocks in the street.

Hamilton Wood Type and Printing Museum in Two Rivers, Wisconsin, and the International Printing Museum in Carson, California, both keep working presses and run public demonstrations.

Ask a local art school or printing museum which binderies and letterpress shops near you hold open days, since those dates often reach only an existing mailing list.

The classes these venues run are covered in finding classes and studios near you, and what documented collections teach is set out in collection case studies.

Common questions

Do I need academic credentials to use a reading room?

Usually not. Most university and public research libraries issue reader cards to members of the public with photo identification and a stated research interest. Check the individual library's registration page before you travel.

Can I photograph material in a reading room?

Often yes, without flash, for personal study. Ask first and expect restrictions on fragile or rights-restricted items. The photography policy is the single question most worth asking before you book travel.

Are museum tours worth booking?

For a first visit, yes. A guided tour of a working papermaking museum shows equipment that is otherwise behind a rope, and the guide can tell you which sheets in the collection are handling copies.

What should I actually look at?

Watermarks against the light, sheet formation, deckle edges and how ink sits in the fiber. Those four observations tell you more about a paper's behavior under a nib than any specification sheet.

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